Getting to know Vitamin C.
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that protects against free radical damage, evens skin tone, and promotes collagen production.
What are the benefits of Vitamin C?
Reduces hyperpigmentation
Boosts collagen
Brightens dull skin
Has anti-aging effects
Provides protection against free radicals
Reduces dark under-eye circles
Vitamin C and all of its forms..
Despite it's amazing benefits vitamin C products have been tough to formulate in the past. Brands have discovered new ways to develop products using various forms of vitamin C. Today we are looking at L-Ascorbic Acid.
Pure L-Ascorbic Acid
Technical name for vitamin C
Most abundant naturally occurring antioxidant in our skin
Purest form of vit C (most effective)
Very sensitive (it quickly oxidizes when exposed to light, oxygen or heat)
Water-soluble
Low pH (this can cause it to be irritating)
Most researched form of vitamin C
Stability & Efficacy.
This is most efficient type of vitamin C but, it does come with many caveats. Since it's a highly unstable form, finding a formula that includes vitamin E (Tocopherol) and F (Ferulic acid) is essential. The addition of these two ingredients will help stabilize L-Ascorbic acid by slowing down oxidation. At the same time, vitamin E & F bring antioxidant properties and their own set of benefits.
Concentration.
Studies show concentrations of 10-20% with a low pH (less than 3.5) offer the most benefits for skin. However, due to the low pH it can be irritating to some individuals. Some users benefit from starting at a lower percentage formula to reduce irritation. Additionally, some people choose to start at the most beneficial range and slowly incorporate it into their routine. This would entail using it every few days for a couple weeks, working up to daily use.
Packaging matters.
Most times I believe the ingredient list is the main focus but, with L-Ascorbic acid another major factor is how its packaged. Considering how quickly this ingredient can oxidize, and lose potency (even with vitamin E & F) if it's packaged in a dropper bottle it increases the risk of degradation. Each time you open a dropper glass bottle the serum is exposed to air, and you will notice the color becoming darker as it oxidizes. Sunlight can also reduce the efficacy of this ingredient making the opacity of the bottle a concern. Numerous skin care brands have great formulas, but unfortunately package them in a dropper bottle. If you are looking to try one of these out- opt for one that's in a opaque bottle to reduce degradation from light. The most stable formula would be in an opaque, air-less pump. For optimal efficiency store it in your refrigerator or a cool, dark area.
Below I will show examples of different packaging along with pro's and con's.
DRMTLGY- Vitamin C E + F
15 % L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)
1% Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
.5% Ferulic Acid (Vitamin F)
Sodium Hyaluronate ( derivative of Hyaluronic Acid)
Acetyl Octapeptide-3 (Argireline)
Etc.
*Fragrance Free
1oz |Reg. $69
Pros: Formulated with Vitamin E & F which will help reduce the oxidation of L-Ascorbic acid. Contains added ingredients that can provide hydration and anti-aging benefits.
Cons: Each time the bottle is opened, it is exposed to air. The bottle is partially transparent making it susceptible to degradation from light. Keep in a cool, dark area (best kept refrigerated).
PAULA'S CHOICE- C15 Super BOOSTER
15% L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)
Ferulic Acid (Vitamin F)
Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
Glycerin
Dipeptide-3
Etc.
*Fragrance Free
.67oz |Reg. $55
Pros: Formulated with Vitamin E & F which will help reduce the oxidation of L-Ascorbic acid. Contains added ingredients that can provide hydration and reactivation of the natural desquamation process. The dropper bottle is opaque, shielding the contents from light.
Cons: Each time the bottle is opened, it is exposed to air. Keep in a cool, dark area (best kept refrigerated).
TIMELESS SKINCARE- 20% Vitamin CE + F
20% L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)
Alpha Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
Ferulic Acid (Vitamin F)
Sodium Hyaluronate (derivative of Hyaluronic Acid)
Panthenol (Vitamin B5)
Etc.
*Fragrance Free
1oz |Reg. $26.95
Pros: Formulated with Vitamin E & F which will help reduce the oxidation of L-Ascorbic acid. Contains added ingredients that can provide hydration and moisturization. The serums in an airless and opaque pump, decreasing chances of oxidation. Keep in a cool, dark area (best kept refrigerated).
EDUCATED MESS- Golden Hour Gold Stabilized Vitamin C
L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)
Gold
Glutathione
Fruit-Derived AHAs
White Butterfly Ginger
Marine Bioferment
Etc.
*Fragrance Free
.68oz |Reg. $85
Pros: Formulated with a groundbreaking complex (Vitamin C, Gold, and Glutathione) which provides the most stable form of Ascorbic Acid on the market. Contains added ingredients that can provide hydration, brightening, and gentle exfoliation. The serums in an airless, and opaque pump, decreasing any chance of oxidation. Keep in a cool, dark area (best kept refrigerated).
*Safe for those with Sensitive skin
Skin Types best suited for L-Ascorbic Acid.
Oily
Combination
Normal
If you have Sensitive or Acne-prone skin you should avoid this ingredient (unless it is Educated Mess's Golden Hour) and stay tuned to read about a vitamin C that's right for you.
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